By Kalyn Faille
We appreciated getting to sleep in this morning—leaving at 8:30 a.m. instead of 7, like the days before. After a one-night stay, we loaded our belongings back onto the bus and set off feeling noticeably more rested, ready for the day ahead.
When we arrived at Anıtkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, long lines of school groups, Turkish families, and foreign tourists were already forming outside the gates. Even in the cold, wind, and light snow, the energy around the site was unmistakable. There was a quiet sense of anticipation and respect that set Anıtkabir apart from typical tourist sites. Our guide, Saba, was especially excited here—Anıtkabir was the subject of his university senior thesis, and he shared a story about his daughter asking to visit Atatürk when she was just three years old. That moment captured how Atatürk is not just a historical figure, but a constant presence in Turkish national identity. As the founder and first president of the Turkish Republic, Atatürk led the country through World War I and the War of Independence and implemented reforms centered on secularism, nationalism, education, and modernization—changes that continue to shape Turkey today.
The mausoleum itself reflects the deliberate care taken in constructing Atatürk’s legacy. After his death in 1938, he was temporarily buried in the Ethnographic Museum of Ankara while the nation debated how best to honor him. A design competition drew 111 architectural proposals, and the final structure was completed in 1953, fifteen years after his death. Atatürk was transported to Anıtkabir by cannon and buried beneath the structure, in accordance with Muslim burial tradition. The building blends multiple historical influences—Greek-inspired architecture suggesting permanence, Roman-style bronze fire bowls symbolizing continuity and power, Ottoman-patterned ceilings connecting to imperial history, and engraved reliefs depicting the struggle to establish modern Turkey. Together, these elements elevate the site beyond a tomb, turning it into a space that visually tells a story about the diversity and history of the nation.
| Exterior of the mausoleum |
| Ottoman-inspired ceiling inside the mausoleum |
Inside the War of Independence Museum, Atatürk is presented not only as a military leader but as a modern, Westernized figure. His personal belongings—cars, clothing, books, dishes, and even fitness equipment—emphasize discipline, refinement, and intellectual curiosity. These displays make it clear that Atatürk is being presented as a model citizen, not just a historical figure. One of his largest reform accomplishments was education reform, particularly the adoption of a Westernized alphabet, highlight how modernization was framed as a national project meant to reshape everyday life.
The war exhibits were especially powerful, and the narrative Turkey wanted to spread about the war was clear. Life-size dioramas and immersive soundscapes depict key moments of the War of Independence, presenting a narrative of invasion, resistance, and eventual liberation. The paintings emphasize civilian suffering, cooperation between soldiers and civilians, and the portrayal of Turks as defensive and unified. However, they do not humanize the Greek soldiers, or portray them in a way that would cause empathy. These depictions show how national memory is carefully constructed—not just to recount history, but to reinforce a shared understanding of the past, and a new Turkish identity.
Taken together, Anıtkabir and the War of Independence Museum made it clear that nationalism in Turkey is actively created and reinforced, not simply remembered. Through architecture, ceremony, museum displays, and selective storytelling, visitors are guided toward a specific interpretation of history—one centered on unity, sacrifice, and moral legitimacy. Rather than presenting multiple perspectives of history, these focus solely on the Turkish experience, and the legacy of Ataturk. This experience highlighted how historical narratives are intentionally crafted and preserved to shape how the nation understands itself.
In the afternoon, we visited the Turkish Grand National Assembly, a rare opportunity made possible through Elon University thanks to Dr. Sumeyye Pakdil and Dr. Baris Kesgin. Dr. Pakdil’s father, Nevzat Pakdil, accompanied us throughout the visit along with members of his staff and the facility’s personnel, adding a personal and welcoming dimension to the experience. The current assembly building, designed by Clemens Holzmeister and opened in 1961, was intended to be a calm and dignified space for governance. Its symbolism is intentional: materials sourced entirely from Turkey, stone representing Anatolian wheat fields, lion-claw staircases signaling strength, and a turquoise carpet symbolizing the national cooperation and collaboration. The Hall of Honor, later damaged during the July 15, 2016 coup attempt, stands as a reminder that Turkey’s political history is ongoing.
The assembly’s library stood out as one of the most striking spaces we visited. Housing hundreds of thousands of books, periodicals, and parliamentary documents dating back to 1920, it functions more as a research center for lawmakers than a public library. By law, every book published in Turkey must be sent to parliament, meaning the collection reflects both official narratives and broader national discourse. Out of these, they select about ten percent to be put into the library. Some were outside in the hallway in glass cases, highlighting key books from the year. One that stood out to me the most was about the U.S.’s own Donald Trump, and his diplomatic and personal relationship with Turkey’s Erdogan. Rare newspapers, archival materials, and digitized records emphasize the state’s role in preserving historical memory. Watching people quietly studying there made the library brought its intellectual fire to life.
We ended the day with lunch inside the assembly complex, enjoying lentil soup, lamb with rice, and a French-inspired dessert. After thanking our hosts, we boarded the buses and began the four-hour drive to Cappadocia, reflecting on a day that showed how closely history, politics, and national identity are intertwined in Turkey. We are so excited for all that is still left to see and explore.
To Kalyn Faille a job well done..
ReplyDeleteIt sounds like everyone is getting quite the education on Turkey and enjoying it. What an opportunity for everyone. Stay safe, have fun and thank you to the teacher, guide and everyone connected to this wonderful experience . Enjoy the rest of your stay and have a safe journey home. Again job well done Kalyn Faille.
Thank you Kalyn! I was just with an Elon student on campus who is taking the banned books course and she was commenting about what is available in the public library and what isn't. Certainly the effort of deciding what is archived will preserve portions of the country's cultural, social and political history; but not all of it. Very nice of Mr. Pakdil to host the Elon group. Makes it so much more meaningful when you have an Elon connection helping you navigate a new space and treating you to lunch :) Safe travels to everyone!
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